I went surfing today! I did a two hour lesson rather than struggle through learning on my own. I quickly became exhausted from all of the paddling and fighting my way back out against waves. The instructor said the conditions were really good as the waves were bigger than normal (about 4-foot swells), and of course the weather was beautiful. I managed to get a few decent runs in but most of the time I fell over right away or missed the wave so there is plenty left to learn. Also she totally used the word gnarly a couple times which really made the experience authentic. :)
After that I swam in the waves and laid on the beach for a while. I had some fish tacos for supper and then hung out at a bar that had karaoke for the rest of the night.